phoebe gelbard
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Northern Forest Canoe Trail 2022

Day 15: 10-Mile Square Road – zero day #1

5/31/2022

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FIRST MUCH-NEEDED REST DAY! Bill and Patty allowed us, so generously, to do laundry and take showers in their home this morning. Eva came and hung out while we talked with Bill about the upcoming section of the Fen, then we drove into Newport together for lunch and various errands. 

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Day 14: Yale Dale to 10-Mile Square Road (Bill & Patty’s NFCT farm stand)

5/30/2022

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Another day, another upstream slog. Portaged and Paddled from Salem Lake to Scampy’s Country Store where we ate a pile of french fries and had a lovely serendipitous run-in with someone named Chelsea, a fellow CX rider whom I met at the Ghosts of Gloucester race last October. 

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Day 13: Canoe & Co. to Yale Dale lean-to

5/29/2022

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Another massive day with an unexpectedly far end-point. We started out the day with a speed-walk into Mansonville, as the owner of Canoe & Co. had warned us that no one maintains the river (read: clears blowdowns) above his upper launch site and it can get completely strewn with strainers. 

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Day 12: Coon’s to Canoe & Co.’s upper launch site

5/28/2022

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Crossed over into Quebec today! Despite having the option of walking along a nice flat road to the border, we stuck to the river. It was quite a slog, and we did it in a downpour. We arrived at the border soaking wet after tracking and dragging our boats upstream, but we were determined to say that we had paddled across the border. 

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Day 11: Brownway to Coon’s Family NFCT campsite

5/27/2022

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One of our shortest days, mileage-wise. Mentally, a tough day: we spent the morning and early afternoon paddling upstream in a steady, relentless rain. I just wanted to be done with this section. We did some tracking over the gravel bars when paddling against the current became useless. 

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Day 10: Highgate Falls Dam to Brownway campsite

5/26/2022

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After a hearty breakfast of granola, PB, and banana, we loaded up our boats, rolled our way up past the dam, and got on the water. Only a mile or two into paddling, we were immediately confronted by a brutal headwind coupled with fighting the current as we crawled upstream. 

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Day 9: Lakewood Campground to Highgate Falls Dam campsite

5/25/2022

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Another long, hot day as we made our way out of Lake Champlain and up into the mouth of the Missisquoi – the start of our first substantial upstream paddling. As the water changed from the crystal clear depths of the lake to a thick coffee-colored river delta, the trilling of birds and bullfrogs serenaded us as we began our slow but steady journey inland. 

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Day 8: Cumberland Bay State Park to Lakewood Campground

5/24/2022

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One week in, and we get to take our first showers of the trip! Woke up feeling 90% recovered, but still lacking the energy that we spent on yesterday's odyssey to Cumberland Bay. Craig sent us off at the beach before we began our crossing, remarking on how perfect a day we had for crossing Champlain. 

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Day 7: Forest to Field to Cumberland Bay State Park

5/23/2022

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WHAT. A. DAY. Said hot dogs and beer? Biggest mistake we’ve ever made. What was supposed to be an easy day of coasting down the Lower Saranac to the edge of Lake Champlain became a living hell: we woke up with food poisoning and could barely drag ourselves out of the tent. 

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Day 6: Bear Point to Forest to Field campsite

5/22/2022

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A raucous thunderstorm woke us up in the middle of the night last night, but we managed to remain shockingly dry. With the buzz of mosquitoes and a looming day of portages ahead, we hustled out of camp and made our way to the end of the pond to eat breakfast (the last of our jar of PB with banana, granola, and dates). 

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    about the author

    Phoebe is a writer, spatial data enthusiast, and fan of bikes, bagels, and type II fun. 

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  • home
  • about
  • maps
    • #30DayMapChallenge 2024
    • #30DayMapChallenge 2023
    • VTXXL trip report
  • field notes
    • ride reports
    • NFCT 2022
    • southeast Asia 2018
  • writing portfolio